Showing posts with label wildlife habitat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wildlife habitat. Show all posts

Monday, January 7, 2019

My Montevideo Native Pollinator Garden

My Montevideo Native Pollinator Garden

For the last three years I've been studying the native butterflies of Montevideo and the plants they depend on for larval host plants and nectar plants. As I find the plants in nurseries or at friends' houses, I'm documenting the plants so others can find these plants and use them to design their own garden for butterflies, bees and the the rest of the ecosystem that these plants support. This garden plan should work well in Montevideo and Buenos Aires, and in surrounding areas of Montevideo such as Canelones and Maldonado.

While I acquired the plants at several different locations, the design was drawn and planted by Remi at Vivero Parati in Toledo Chico, Montevideo.

See my post "Montevideo Butterfly Garden Design" for a list of nurseries where I have bought native plants.

Check back here often. I'll be adding all of the native plants in my garden over the next six months.

The Plants


Dicliptera tweediana, "Canario Rojo"

Dicliptera tweediana is a small upright perennial herb native to Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay. Its common name is Canario Rojo. Sometimes it's called Dicliptera squarrosa. There are some really good photos of it over on the blog Flora Bonaerense. It flowers in spring and fall and gets to be up to one meter tall. The flowers attract pollinators and hummingbirds. Hummingbirds this summer are most avidly visiting the Dicliptera and the Salvia guaranitica.

Canario Rojo likes wetter locations and lots of sun. Mine is doing fine in a border bed next to the lawn that receives daily sprinkler watering and afternoon sun. Deadhead the spent flowers to extend the flowering period, and cut back in the fall. This plants roots easily from cuttings. I think it self-seeds as well. I just found some seedlings in the side yard where the potted plant was stored until I got around to planting it in the butterfly garden.

Canario Rojo is host plant to two butterflies, the Mbatara' or Batara' (Ortilia ithra) and the Princesa Roja (Anartia amathea roeselia), according to Proyecto Panambi'.
In Mariposas de Uruguay, (Bentancur, Gabriela. (2011). Mariposas del Uruguay, Argentina, Brasil y Paraguay) it is noted that both of these butterflies can also lay their eggs successfully on Ruellia species.

This plant was hard to buy in Uruguay. Most nurseries don't have it. I was able to find it at Area Indigena in Balneario Solis. Silvia now sells out of her private nursery called Yosinama in Barrio Pinares, Maldonado. She can be found on Facebook as Yosinama Gardens, where she lists her cell phone number as 098821306.

Ruellia simplex, "Ruellia"

Ruellia simplex is native to Uruguay. Its common name in English is Mexican petunia or wild petunia, although it's not a petunia at all. It's found in wet areas, so it likes a wetter area in your garden as well.  The fantastic purple flowers bloom for a day and then fall off. A new set blooms the next day. This goes on for months in spring and summer. The fuzzy stems are green to burgundy.  The true green leaves have a tiny bit of the burgundy all around the rim. It's a truly gorgeous plant. It self-seeds easily with explosive seeds, and spreads by rhizome. These qualities make the plant invasive, and Ruellia will increase the size of its clump each year. You can cut it back or divide it in autumn or winter and share it with a friend. The hearty aggressiveness of Ruellia makes is quite invasive in other countries, where the butterflies that depend on it to nourish their caterpillars are not present. 

As stated in the entry above, Ruellia and Canario Rojo are host plants for caterpillars of the Batara' and Princesa Roja butterflies. This plant is available in nurseries in Uruguay.


Passiflora caerulea, "Mburucuya"
 Passiflora caerulea is known in English as blue passionflower. This and other Passion flower species are found throughout North and South America, where the local versions of the plant are usually the main host plant of the local population of the butterfly Agraulis vanillae known in English as the Gulf Fritillary or in Spanish as Espejitos.

Female Espejitos butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves or tendrils of the Mburucuya plant. The eggs hatch several days later and the tiny caterpillars eat the leaves, molting several times as they grow. Finally, the last molt converts them to a chrysalis that looks like a dead brown leaf hanging on a branch or a nearby wall.  After a few weeks the butterfly will emerge from the chrysalis and start the cycle again.



This Uruguayan species of passionflower is locally called Mburucuya. It's a woody vine with the fringed purple and white flower that gives it its name.  The fruit is edible. I have been growing this on a bamboo trellis in my garden for two years but have only gotten a couple of flowers and no fruit yet. The bright orange Espejitos butterflies visit it frequently and its caterpillars are eating it to death. The only solution is to plant more of it for them. It's hard to find in nurseries. They will usually try to sell you a Brazilian species with much larger, thicker leaves, because it also produces larger fruit.  But the local butterflies in Montevideo truly prefer the delicate palmate leaves of this local species.

I was able to buy some prepared cuttings of this vine at the nursery called Vivero Pachamama.  It's located on Av. Giannattasio in Pinar Sur, Canelones, Uruguay. Call ahead to make sure they have it in stock.

Seeds for Mburucuya are available from Psamofila, a new native seed company in Punta del Este. Check their Facebook or Instagram to find out where to buy the seeds in Montevideo.



















Salvia uliginosa, "Bog Sage"
This 1.5 meter tall perennial sage has lovely little sky blue flowers that come and go on a spike. The delicate leaves are light green. The plant grows in a clump and spreads a little each year. It can be cut back to the ground in winter. It regrows from the roots in spring. You can get more blooms by cutting back spent spikes in summer. It grows well in full sun. The flowering season is quite long: winter, summer and fall. While I haven't found that this plant is a butterfly host plant, it is very useful to pollinators. The bees absolutely love it. In winter, little wrens have been eating the seeds from the spent flower stalks.


This plant works well in clumps because the bees like to just bumble from flower to flower without having to go too far from one to the other. It looks nice with clumps of other plants around it in different colored foliage and different heights.  In this picture the bog sage is surround by a clump of vira vira (grey leaves with white button flowers), rue (olive foliage with yellow flowers) and Ruellia (dark green leaves with deep purple flowers). See above for more information on Ruellia.

Salvia guaranitica, Black and Blue Sage or Hummingbird Sage
 This perennial herb is shorter than the bog sage, above, but its flowers are larger, the blue color is intense, and they flowers are contrasted with a black calyces.  The leaves are much larger than bog sage, a deeper green and heart-shaped.

They have an extremely long flowering season. We just passed the winter solstice and these plants still have flowers on them. They must not have any more nectar because the hummingbirds have stopped visiting them. But in the summer and fall, the hummingbirds were crazy for this plant. I only had two of them at the time, and I am certain that the hummingbirds, after checking out all of the flowers, would look at me as if to say, "Where are the rest of them? You didn't plant enough!" So I planted some more.

I bought some of these at Vivero Musacco and some by accident from someone else. They just bloomed one day on the edge of the bog sage and I was blown away by this plant.


Like the bog sage, this sage can be pruned in summer to encourage more blooms, and cut to the ground in late winter. Divide the clumps every few years if they spread too much. They are very hardy and do well in full sun and moist soil.

This is a good nectar flower for butterflies and bees.  The bumblebees can't fit inside the flower so they try to get at the nectar from the outside base of the flower where it meets the black calyx.

I read in several nursery guides that this sage has an anise scent, but I didn't notice it.  I also read that it had medicinal value as a sedative.





Salvia procurrens, Creeping Sage
This cute little sage is a ground cover with small light blue flowers very similar to the bog sage. Its round leaves spread out along runner stems and will cover a garden bed in weeks.  If it gets out of hand, and out of the bed, which it will, it's very easy to just pick up the end and pull it out or cut it back at the edge. Anything you cut or pull can be placed on the ground somewhere else and it will take root easily.

The flowers are visited by bees. Small birds forage for seeds under the leaves.




Senecio vira-vira, Vira-vira
Vira-vira is native to Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina, although it is very popular in the USA and UK, where it is known as Dusty Miller.

This perennial evergreen subshrub is in the Aster family. It's small white button flowers are very attractive to butterflies and other pollinators. Cut back the flower stalks after blooming to give the plant a nice silver mounding shape.

This plant does well in full sun and dry soil. It forms a mound about and half meter high and a meter wide. Some garden websites recommend removing the flowers because they aren't showy, but the flowers are the reason to have this plant in a pollinator garden.




Verbena bonariensis, Tall Verbena

 This local verbena is one of the tallest perennials in my pollinator garden.  It's not terribly showy, and the lavender flowers are really tiny.  It's listed on all the local pollinator lists as a must have because it's an important nectar plant for bees and butterflies.

The fact that it's tall and leggy, with slender sparse leaves, makes it a good plant for a back border, or as a sheer curtain.  This plant doesn't block other plants that are behind it. I didn't prune the verbena much this year unless it got brown and unsightly.  Tall Verbena will self seed if you leave the seeds on the plant to ripen.  I've done this so I'll probably get lots of seedlings in the spring.  Right now we are in mid winter, and I've noticed that it is starting to sprout at the upper levels of the stems. I don't want this to happen because it won't have a good shape next summer: too top heavy I think, with lots of spent woody stems.  If I prune the plant down low, it will resprout from the base instead of the tall stems.

Tall Verbena grows well in full sun and moist but not boggy soil. It will tolerate part shade as well.

If Tall Verbena is self-seeding around your garden where you don't want it, once you recognize the seedlings, it is easy to pull them out before they set seed.












Eupatorium macrocephalum, Pompom Weed

Eupatorium macrocephalum is common in fields and roadsides in Uruguay, but few people actually plant it in their gardens. It's a tall perennial that spreads by rhizome. In the winter the stalk dries up but has cute little button seeds on top. You can cut the stalks down to the ground in winter.  The plant will regenerate in spring as small rosettes emerging from the ground.  These will get nice and bushy, with fuzzy lanceolate leaves and fuzzy purplish stems.  Then suddenly they will sprout up, seemingly overnight to twice their height.  After this they will produce these lovely flowers that attract bees and butterflies for their nectar.  With their height, soft stems and large flowers, some of the stalks can tip over.  I cut them back and that stimulated some new flowers to grow.

Eupatorium macrocephalum is allelopathic, meaning it puts out chemicals that suppress the growth of other plants around it.  I haven't seen this yet, as I've only had it one year. Once you recognize the rosettes, if they get too numerous, they are very easy to pull out.

Another local native plant in the same genus is Eupatorium inulifolium. It has white flowers and a lovely perfume and attracts even more bees and butterflies that the purple variety, I've noticed.  I actually ordered E. inulifolium from my nursery, and was surprised to see it bloom purple.  A little research led me to the conclusion that I had in fact received E. macrocephalum.


Here's a photo of the leaves. This is several plants seen from above. Remember to group clumps of the same plant together.  It looks nice and it helps the birds and insects locate the plant and easily jump from flower to flower for its nectar.

These flowering plants in the aster family used to be in the same genus as Joe Pye Weed, Eupatorium maculatum. But recently, many of the 800 species in the genus Eupatorium have been moved to other genuses.  Joe Pye Weed is now called Eutrochium maculatum, and I've seen Pompom Weed listed as Campuloclinum macrocephalum. There have been a lot of changes in the scientific names of plants in the last couple of years due to advancements in genetic studies.

Baccharis trimera, Carqueja
Carqueja is one of the most recognized plants in Uruguay.  It is a small perennial subshrub in the aster family. Native to most of South America, it is often seen along roadsides and in the prairie landscape.  It has bright green leaf matter all the way down the stem to the base, and the leaf matter is separated into three wings. The stems are segmented and the flowers emerge at the segment. The small cream-colored composite flowers are fragrant and attract pollinators.
Carqueja grows readily in flower gardens and vegetable gardens. It reaches about 70 cm and will form a clump that gets larger each year. It is easily divided and transplanted to other areas.

This plant is prized in Uruguay for its medicinal value.  Uruguayans add a 2 cm length of stem in their thermos of hot water used for making yerba mate.  They will tell you that it helps with digestion and liver function. There are many studies showing that it has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, antihepatotoxic and analgesic effects.





NOTE: During 2019 I will be updating this post with photos and descriptions of the ecological value of all the native plants in my Montevideo native plant garden.
Upcoming plants will include:


Begonia cucullata
Solanum
Solidago
Aspilia montevidensis
Cestrum parquii
Asclepias
Aristolochia littoralis
Duranta
Araza'
Ipomoea alba
Ruta
Combretum
Oxalis
Yerba Mate, Ilex paraguariensis
Marcela, Achyrocline satureioides

Annual Herbs

Vines

Perennial Herbs
Malva parviflora
Nicotiana alata
Glandularia dissecta


Sub-Shrubs
Cafecillo, Senna scabriuscula

Woody Shrubs
Lantana camara
Pitanga
Rama Negra, Senna corymbosa (evergreen)
Chirca, Eupatorium buniifolium
Guayabo del Pais, Acca sellowiana (evergreen)
Jazmin del Uruguay, Guettarda uruguensis (evergreen)
Plumerillo Rosado, Calliandra parvifolia
Cedron del Monte, Aloysia gratissima

Trees
Lapacho Rosado, Tabebuia heptaphylla
Espinillo
Coronilla
Anacahuita, Schinus molle
Ceibo
Palo Borracho

Friday, May 26, 2017

The Virginia Native Wildlife Garden I Left Behind

Kitchen herbs in the foreground are mostly European, but the asters and River Birch are natives

When I moved away from Virginia 5 years ago, I was leaving 4 years worth of garden work, which included study, research and hard labor. I had spent countless hours studying butterfly lists, butterfly needs, plant lists, plant qualities and requirements. Many of the resources I used are listed here on the right sidebar::==>

Things were just starting to fill in and fulfill their ecosystem functions when we found out we were being transferred to Italy.  Even though I was thrilled to go to Rome, I was heartbroken to leave my garden behind, because I knew nobody would take care of it and understand it the way I did.

I worked with my gardener, Martin, to the point where he understood how I wanted it cared for while I was away, but he left soon after that as well.  Today I just found my notes that I left with him, on how to care for the garden, and what the names of the native plants were.  I found some photos as well. It really was hard to look at them.  My heart started pounding and my breathing got kind of fast and shallow.  It was as if I were looking at old pictures of my child, or my favorite pets!

Here, for the sake of record keeping, for when I return to Virgina and restore my garden, is the document I left for Martin on the care and upkeep of my Virginia Native Plant pollinator garden.  Some more photos are below as well.

Cory’s Garden Notes 

v  Leave as many fall leaves in place as possible – they contain the eggs, pupae and hibernating adult insects. Leaves also act as mulch.

v  Let the clover stay in the grass for the bees and butterflies.  I don’t mind the dandelions and plantains, but the tenant might.  Keep them comfortable with their surroundings. Leave the violets. Leave the Virginia Creeper unless it starts to take over. So far it’s been well-behaved.

v  Pull up the ivy, bush honeysuckle seedlings, forsythia, grape, porcelainberry, bishop’s weed, garlic mustard. Throw them out in the trash or put them in a pile on the street and call for a county unbundled brush pick-up.  Remove the vinca only if you have some other ground cover to replace it with.

v  Let seed heads persist through winter for visual interest and food for birds and chipmunks.

v  Don’t let the vinca take over the plants in the side yard, but only pull it up if you have something good to replace it with.

v  Divide the green-headed coneflower in front of the porch. Put half back in place, but about a foot forward toward the sidewalk. Place the other half on the other side of the brick steps for symmetry.

v  Tame and contain the asters and give the columbine, Japanese anemone and strawberries plenty of room to live.

v  Don’t let the white strawberries take over the gray dogwood, or the blueberries or the wood ferns. Make sure it doesn’t invade the little bed with the sensitive fern and the wood poppies.

v  I tolerate a lot of insect damage because I try to plant what insects want to eat (so that birds will want to eat the insects…)

v  The native Prunus shrubs and trees are among the most important host plants for lepidopterae, second only to the oaks. Prune the wild cherry so it’s not in the way, but let it live.

v  Hummingbirds love the zinnias. Plant some in the spring near the bird bath and the cardinal flowers.


v  Add more of the plants that survived the drought/heatwave; expand and add mass
   

     List of Native Plants in My Virginia Garden




-          Cardinal flowers (Lobelia cardinalis)
-          Blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)
-          Wild petunia (Ruellia caroliniensis)
-          Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
-          Golden ragwort (Packera aurea)
-          Ironweed (Vernonia novaborascensis)
-          Heuchera
-          Blue mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum)
-          Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca)
-          Gaultheria procumbens (teaberry)
-          Marginal woodfern (Dryopteris marginalis)
-          White strawberries (Fragaria virginiana)
-          Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium)
-      Bee Balm (Monarda)
-      Purple Passion Flower vine (Passiflora incarnata)
-      Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)
-      Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
-      Low Bush Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium)
-      Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia viginiana)
-      New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) 
-      Maple Leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium)
-      Cup Plant (Silphium perfoliatum)
-      Bluestem Goldenrod (Solidago caesia)
-      Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
-      Inkberry (Ilex glabra)
-      Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) is a larval host for spicebush swallowtail.
-      Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
-      Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis)
-      Trumpet Honeysuckle Vine (Lonicera sempervirens)
-      Greenheaded Coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata)
-      Common Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
-      Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)

v  Here’s a list of March-blooming natives that I never got around to planting:
-          Cardamine concatenate (shade/moist)
-          Dicentra cucullaria (Dutchman’s breeches) (sun-shade/moist)
-          Dirca palustris (leatherwood) (shade/moist)
-          Mertensia (VA bluebells) (shade/moist)
-          Polemonium reptans (Jacob’s ladder) (shade/moist)
-          Sanguinaria Canadensis (shade/moist)

A few more photos (indulge me a little, sniff)...











Monday, May 22, 2017

Butterfly Gardening in Italy

I created this slide show a couple of years ago in Rome to show people in Italy how and why to plant native plant gardens for butterflies and other pollinators.  You can use the slide show if you want. Just remind people to find out what their local species of butterflies and plants are. Help them locate resources for native plants and nurseries that sell natives and heirlooms, instead of exotics and cultivars, ethically sourced or home grown.

Here's a link to the slide show.  Enjoy!

https://www.haikudeck.com/farfalle-a-roma--art-and-design-presentation-5a881d7c30

Butterfly Gardening in Missouri


Butterflies are beautiful to watch, their colors, the way they flit and fly, and sip nectar from the flowers you planted. That's reason enough to attract them to your garden. But the benefits of planting a butterfly garden are much broader than that. Butterfly gardens benefit other pollinators which help your vegetable garden and fruit trees. Many butterfly garden plants provide food and nesting for birds. Caterpillars provide the protein snack that birds need to feed their young and to migrate long distances.

Support the butterfly lifecycle with host plants and nectar plants

For a butterfly to compete its lifecycle, the adult butterfly eats flower nectar or the juices of fallen fruit.  The female lays her eggs on specific plants that she smells with her feet to make sure it's the right one that her caterpillars will need to eat in order to grow, molt and grow some more. Most people know that the Monarch caterpillar needs to eat Milkweed. But all butterfly species have their own particular plants that their caterpillars need to eat. These are called their host plant. You can look at the butterfly list in the link below to see what host plants each butterfly needs.

Provide a habitat network for pollinators

Planting native plants, and encouraging your neighbors to do so as well, provides a network of habitat for butterflies, birds and other pollinators. There may be a fence between you and your neighbor, but a butterfly can get nectar from your garden and hop the fence to lay eggs in your neighbor's garden. The lifecycle is supported by this pearl necklace of habitat oases.

Learn about your local wildlife and the native plants they depend on

This guide is intended as a starter kit for all gardeners who have a garden in the sun, large or small, or a patio with planters, or even something as small as a window box. The PDF in the link below is a list of plants you can choose to get a quick payoff of butterflies in your Missouri or Illinois garden. It's not a comprehensive list. I chose my favorite butterflies to attract, but gave you resources at the end to seek more information once you get inspired to go farther.

Here is a link to the PDF of my list of native midwest plants that attract and sustain butterflies of Missouri:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1J85lJOaDItYkJPLUVuVWkxb2s/view?usp=sharing

For gardeners in other areas of the country or the world, there are some resources in the right side of this blog that can get you started. Over there, look! =>

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

My Last Tree Column

I've been editing my neighborhood newsletter for two and a half years now. One of the main benefits of this job is that I've had a free forum for my native gardening and tree canopy advocacy.  I've just sent my final edition to the printer, and with it my final Tree Talk column.  Here it is:

 Tree Talk: Restoring Our Community’s Native Tree Canopy

My Last Tree Column
This is my last newsletter and tree column. My family is being transferred to Italy for three years. If there’s anything to report about trees and wildlife in Rome, I’ll send a dispatch, but the wildlife will probably be of a different nature.

Before turning to trees, I’d like to say what a rewarding experience it has been editing this newsletter. Thanks to Bruce for providing me the design and training to get started. Thanks to my ad man, Marty. Thanks to my newsletter carriers for going out in all kinds of weather to bring the newsletter to your home. Thanks also to my skillful writers, without whom there would be no news. And of course thanks to my husband for doing even more work on the newsletter than I do, even though I get all the credit and the glory. Oh the glory.

Over the last two and a half years, I have gently nudged my neighbors in the direction of tree planting, tree care and native gardening for invertebrate and vertebrate biodiversity support. I’d like to recap here the concepts I think are most important and urgent.

Plant native trees for all their benefits. Trees save energy and save you money. They purify the air and the water. They conserve the soil and provide wildlife food and shelter.

Not all native trees are equal. We’re lucky in the mid-Atlantic region because Dr. Doug Tallamy at the University of Delaware has been measuring which trees provide the most benefit to wildlife here. His prioritized lists can be found on his website. But basically, the most valuable natives for wildlife support are oak, cherry, willow, birch, poplar, crabapple, blueberry bush and maple. Be sure to plant local, native versions of these plants because European and Asian plants don’t feed the invertebrates that are the foundation of our local food web. Read Dr. Tallamy’s book Bringing Nature Home or simply click on “What to Plant” on his website http://bringingnaturehome.net/

Water young trees 25 gallons a week. Every weekend, take stock of the previous week’s rain. If it hasn’t rained much, soak the ground around the root spread, which is at least as wide as the canopy spread.

Plant trees in the right spot. Determine the height and canopy spread the tree will have at maturity. Make sure it won’t inter-fere with power lines, buildings, driveways and neighbors’ property. Call Miss Utility before you dig. In Virginia, dial 811. http://va811.com/

Put mulch under trees instead of grass. Spread it 3 inches thick and keep it 3 inches away from the trunk. Spread it out as wide as the farthest branches. Each year, make the circle a bit wider. Mulch keeps roots moist, provides nutrients and keeps down weeds. It also keeps lawn mowers and weed whackers away from the trunk. Arlington leaf mulch is awesome. Pick some up for free or have it delivered for a small fee: http://www.arlingtonva.us/departments/EnvironmentalServices/SW/Residential/page83856.aspx

Leave the leaves. Trees make their own best mulch by dropping their leaves. Even evergreens drop their leaves, just not all at once. Rake the lawn, driveway and patio, but leave a circle of leaves at the base of each tree, and leave the leaves that fall on your flowerbeds as well. Not only do they benefit from the nutrients and moisture, but the leaves contain the larvae and pupae of next year’s butterflies!

Let me tell you ’bout the birds and the bees. Native plants support moths and butterflies, who in turn support the birds. They also provide food for pollinators. Simply put, native plants are the foundation of the web of life. Don’t forget we are caught up in that web.

Tolerate some leaf damage. Native plants help insects by being their food. If there are holes in your foliage, it means you were successful in choosing good bug food.

And last, but certainly not least, take ivy off trees. What looks like a lovely little green plant can actually strangle trees, accelerate rot, attract mosquitoes and cause mature trees to fall down during storms. Visit the TreeSteward website for more information on ivy removal and tree care, and visit the master gardener and tree tables at the Arlington Courthouse Farmers’ Market on Saturdays in summer.

Monday, June 4, 2012

Evening Primrose Puzzle: One of These Things is Not Like the Others


Evening Primrose, Oenothera biennis. Photo by Cory Giacobbe
Perhaps among the Evening Primroses, Oenothera biennis, you see one stalk that is just a bit taller, the leaves are a bit longer, less shiny? That’s because one single Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta, insisted on moving in with them last fall after an aggressive clump of perennial Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm (purchased at Home Depot in a moment of weakness when the native R. hirta, a more delicate biennial, was taking too long to establish itself) took over their spot and kicked them out. Now single R. hirta shoots are popping up here and there, exiled, tentatively trying out new spots to colonize.  The goldfinches loved the R. hirta, so I hope they make a comeback somewhere.

Meanwhile, the Evening Primroses just keep getting taller and denser each year. This native biennial wildflower is a favorite of bumble bees. It’s said to be edible for humans too.  The Sacred Earth Ethnobotany and Ecotravel website claims that the roots of the first year plants are good to eat and posts a couple of recipes. The seeds are said to have many healing properties, but they are too small to harvest in a usable quantity. The flowers are nice in a salad, although I haven’t tried it yet.  The leaves are also edible, but no recipes were offered.

Carpenter Bee on Evening Primrose. Photo by Cory Giacobbe
Evening Primroses are more than just a drop-dead gorgeous plant. They are tough little guys and very easy to grow.  According to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, they are valuable to wildlife as well. The flowers attract moths, and hold special value for native bees. The seeds are eaten by birds, and small mammals eat the roots and leaves of young plants. The flowers of this plant are said to open at night, stay open in the morning and then close up in the mid-day heat. So far mine have been closed in the morning and slowly open throughout the day. I’ll keep an eye on them to see if they start to behave like a normal primrose as the summer progresses.

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Tree Canopy Fund - Trees for Private Property


Arlington County, Virginia has a unique and innovative program to enhance the County’s dwindling tree canopy coverage. While the County has funding and jurisdiction to plant and maintain trees on public property such as streets and parks, the greatest amount of available space to plant trees is on private property. In 2007, a program was developed that provides funds to help homeowners and other private property owners to plant trees on their land. 

The funding is provided by property developers who are unable to place the number of trees required by their site plan on their property when they develop sites. The developers must pay $2400 for every required tree they are unable to plant on their site. This money is used by a local environmental non-profit organization called Arlingtonians for a Clean Environment, to administer the Tree Canopy Fund. Trees are planted for the homeowner by a carefully selected nursery that is able to provide high quality trees that meet the size, species and planting guidelines of the program.

Under this program, community groups such as Civic Associations and Condominium Associations can apply for the funds to have trees planted on their property. There is an emphasis on large, native canopy trees that will provide a number of ecosystem and economic benefits such as street and sidewalk protection, home cooling, stormwater slowing and filtering, carbon sequestration and oxygen production, and wildlife habitat. Applicant groups are encouraged to work with trained TreeSteward volunteers from their neighborhood to help homeowners to select appropriate trees for their site, and to place the tree correctly on the site to meet as many benefits as possible and to avoid hazards such as proximity to power lines.

Arlington County is a suburban community that is quickly becoming urban. Its location adjacent to Washington, DC makes it a desirable location to live and to develop for government-related enterprises.  But this development has caused Arlington to lose a significant amount of tree canopy coverage. Under the Tree Canopy Fund, so far 688 trees have been planted for homeowners by contractors, and funded by the Arlington County Tree Canopy Fund.  To learn more about the fund, visit the Arlington County website http://www.arlingtonva.us/departments/Communications/PressReleases/page58308.aspx to read a press release announcing and describing the program. Details about the program, the process and the tree selection list can be found here
I encourage you to learn about this program, which demonstrates Arlington County’s commitment to maintaining and increasing a healthy urban forest for all of the vital benefits that it provides. Increasing urban tree canopy coverage using appropriate species in the appropriate location is valuable nationally and globally, not just locally. If you can use our program guidelines and procedures to develop a similar program in your community, I would be ecstatic to know you learned about it from me.
To learn more about trees and the importance of planting locally native species, please visit the links on the right ==>

Friday, May 18, 2012

Luna Moths Need Black Walnut, Hickory Trees and Dark Skies


Luna Moth (from Wikipedia)
Two decades ago when I moved to our house in Arlington, Virginia, a Luna Moth took up residence for a couple of days among the moon flowers and morning glories climbing up the bean trellis. Since I was new to Virginia as well as the neighborhood, I assumed Luna Moths were a common occurrence that I would be able to enjoy in my new home. That turned out not to be true, and I’ve only seen two, both more than a decade ago.
 
The Luna Moth, Actias luna, is a lime-green swallowtail with a wingspan of four and a half inches, making it one of the largest North American moths.  Its preferred larval host trees in our area are the walnuts and hickories, but it will also use sweet gum and persimmon trees.  Up north, they go for birch, alder and sumac.  The trees are not damaged by the caterpillars.  After eating their fill of leaves and transforming through five instars (life cycle phases or molts), the caterpillars drop to the ground at the base of the tree, wrap themselves in silk and leaf litter, and pupate.
 
Luna Moths face many challenges to survival in the urban sprawl.  They require dark skies to reproduce.  They fly up to the tops of the host trees well after midnight to mate and lay eggs.  There is evidence that the bright lights from streetlights and buildings interfere with the moth’s ability to reproduce. They are also becoming endangered by the measures to control Gypsy Moths.  

While I haven’t read anything about the effect of leaf collection on Lepidoptera, it seems logical to me that our obsession with raking, mowing and blowing our yards clean has had the effect of sweeping away the pupated moths and butterflies as they undergo the miracle of metamorphosis at our feet.   [for more information on supporting wildlife by leaving in place the  leaves, seedheads and leaf stalks that insects, birds and small mammals depend on, see this post by Pat Sutton "A Love of Untidy Gardens and Why!" on the website Native Plants and Wildlife Gardens]

Finally, as our neighborhood’s original native tree cover is aging and disappearing, we are not replacing them with the species that the local fauna require for food, shelter and reproduction. Maybe we can help keep these beauties around by planting native hosts, leaving some leaf litter each fall, especially at the base of walnuts, hickories and sweet gums, and turning off unnecessary lights at night.
 
For more information on native landscaping for wildlife, have a look at the links on the right =>

Update May 27, 2012: We went for a walk this morning at Huntley Meadows Park in Alexandria, Virginia. On the path of the forested area near the edge of the wetlands, I saw a Luna Moth. It was the first one I have seen in almost 20 years.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Why I Plant Native Plants


How did this native plant adventure start for me? Moving frequently with my husband’s job, we rent the house out whenever we are overseas.  The shrubs and perennials I planted got neglected and taken over by English ivy and Asian honeysuckle. I got the idea to plant attractive weeds that would survive renters. That didn’t work out very well because I didn’t have time to research it and implement it.  When I came home in 2008, a friend suggested I take the Arlington Tree Stewards Volunteer training. Over the course of the 3 month training, I became convinced of the literally vital role of native trees, shrubs and forb (the forest ground later that goes away in winter and comes back in the spring), not only for wildlife but for civilized life as well.

As Dr. Doug Tallamy, Professor and Chair of Entomology and Wildlife Ecology at University of Delaware, points out in Bringing Nature Home , native plants are vital to survival of the food web, but we are experiencing a precipitous decline in undisturbed habitats. Bulldozing wetlands, forests, meadows and prairies for housing and monoculture farming is leaving precious little food and cover for insects, spiders, birds and mammals. Combine that with the alien invasive ornamental plants we brought over from Asia and Europe that are choking out the remaining native habitat, and we clearly have a crisis on our hands.

Dr. Tallamy’s current research shows that insects eat plants, and they largely eat the native plants they co-evolved with.  We’re losing our native bugs because we’re losing our native plants. And we’re losing our native birds because they need the bugs and fruit and nuts from the native plants, and so on. You get the picture.

Dr. Tallamy’s solution is to convince homeowners across the country to change the way they think about gardening, and to gradually replace lawns and alien ornamentals with the native trees, shrubs and forb that butterflies and moths need to survive. He focuses on Lepidoptera because he’s an entomologist, but also because butterflies are beautiful and can engage the public.  They also provide food up the chain for birds and mammals, and gardening for them also helps other species.

Blogs are supposed to be short, so I’ll stop here for today. In future posts I’ll point out the benefits of gardening with natives, how to get started, and show what’s going on with my own backyard habitat as it develops.

When you’re ready to get started, have a look at the resource links over here on the right =>

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Flying Squirrels Need Tall Trees


Photo by Steve Young
Recently I was browsing the website of the Arlington Virginia Long Branch Nature Center when I spotted a link to this great  video about the Southern Flying Squirrel. Unable to resist watching the video, I learned that there are probably more Southern Flying Squirrels here in Arlington than regular grey squirrels. We just don't see them because they’re nocturnal. They live in pretty much the same backyard habitats as the grey squirrel. They need a hiding place, water and food. In the video, a staff member of the Long Branch Nature Center is demonstrating the behavior of the flying squirrel by showing how it will fly to a tree that has peanut butter smeared on it. In another Long Branch Nature Center video, you can see a flying squirrel up close. This is the resident flying squirrel that lives inside the Long Branch Nature Center. This squirrel was rescued and brought to the nature center in 2007.  He refuses to live in the wild. As a result, he is a wonderful learning resource for Arlington residents.
The Southern Flying Squirrel is the mascot of the Long Branch Nature Center, located in Arlington, Virginia. It’s on their brochure, and they lead night walks to spot the animals.   To learn more, I interviewed former Director of the Center (currently Director of Natural Resources for Arlington County), Alonso Abugattas, our resident expert on the Southern Flying Squirrel. 
The flying squirrels are smaller than grey squirrels. They have larger eyes to see better at night. And they’re more predatory. In addition to nuts, fruits and berries, they’ll eat animals, insects, eggs and carrion. Their favorite nuts are hickory nuts but they also like filberts and oak acorns. They don’t like walnuts so much because they’re hard to carry. They love suet and seeds from bird feeders.
Flying squirrels don’t actually fly. They glide from one tree to another.  They spread out their skin flaps, called a patagium, and catch the air like a parachute. They control the glide by banking.  They don’t use their tails to steer. Sometimes they wipe out on the ground if they miscalculate. For every two feet up, they can glide one foot out. The longest glide observed was 100 yards, off a tree and down a hillside.



Photo from "The Snag" Newsletter of Arlington VA Parks and Rec
Flying squirrels can build leaf nests (dreys) but they don’t like to live in them.  They prefer cavities in live trees, dead trees or snags. Keep your dead trees standing if possible and safe, or cut them down to a safer height, retaining the snag. They will also nest in bluebird boxes. They prefer to be at least 10 feet up.
During non-breeding season they hide together in cavities to keep warm. During breeding season they are incredibly secretive. They spread out in the woods. They prefer a habitat with big trees, larger, older trees that are spread out a bit, 20 feet apart or more.
In suburban areas, if there aren’t enough trees, they will take up residence in other areas such as bird boxes and attics.  This can be a problem because they run around at night and they chew.  If this happens, they’re easy to trap in “Have a Heart” traps with peanut butter as bait. 
To see flying squirrels in your yard, put peanut butter on a tree branch after the grey squirrels have gone to bed. I haven’t tried it yet but I will soon!
Plant and preserve native canopy trees so flying squirrels and other wildlife have a place to live. 

For more information on the Southern Flying Squirrel, check out the website of the Chesapeake Bay Program. There's also a fact sheet by the Audubon Society of Northern Virginia, that gives advice on how to provide food and shelter for the Souther Flying Squirrel by planting native berry shrubs and hickory trees.  Also plant butterfly host plants because they love to feast on caterpillars.
-Cory